Tag Archive: PostProcessing

Loupedeck Editing Console Has An Analog Button/Dial For Virtual Lightroom Buttons.

Do you like physical analog buttons and dials rather than virtual ones on a screen? If yes, then this might just be for you. Loupedeck is a photo editing console for Lightroom that has a button or a dial control for most of  your editing needs. The idea is very simple. Using a dial or a button to edit an image in Lightroom instead of using the keyboard and mouse combo. It is a little smaller than an average size keyboard and has around forty dials and buttons that can be customized to do various functions using the app provided with it.

Before you ask I am going to say this, NO this does not make your workflow any faster. It might, however, be useful for people who suffer any kind of nerve problems and have difficulty in using a mouse for a long time.

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The dials and buttons do a good job at performing rudimentary basic tasks but it really cannot handle anything much more than that, at least at this point of time. For example, many people use the alt key while masking, sharpening and in many other ways, if using only the Loupedeck console, you may not be able to use this function at all.

The large dial on the left side of the console is used for straightening and cropping the picture. The problem with this is, it only changes in 4 degree increments, something that may not be suitable ALL the time. Moreover the brush button on the console only SELECTS the brush for you after which you have to use….,you guessed it right, your trusty mouse.

Overall, the Loupedeck console seems to be a new innovative thought in the right direction but, in my opinion, it has to do so much better to totally replace the mouse and the keyboard on a photo editor’s desk. The app that comes with the console does allow us to change and alter the functions of the buttons; but it is really a pain to switch every time you need something done. Lastly, and this is a big one for me since I am more of a Photoshop user than Lightroom. It works ONLY with Lightroom. Which means whenever you need to do a part of the editing on Photoshop, you have to use the keyboard and mouse anyhow. Problemo!  With a $300 price tag, this Loupedeck should do so much more.

Do let me know what you think of this new toy…..would you consider buying it?

Make Retro Looking Paintings Using A Bunch Of Photos And Photoshop

This is a fun one, create art from photos. For all those people who like to take photographs but absolutely suck at drawing or painting; this might just be the perfect way out for you. In this video, Gavin Hoey, one of my favorite photographer youtuber explains how we can easily create art from photos, using just a bunch of photographs and a post-processing software like Photoshop.

This method requires next to NO skills, NO special equipment, and is absolutely FREE. You could do this with a cell phone camera for heaven’s sake. So lets get cracking and watch the video.

If you look at the video closely, you will notice that the primary thing you need to do here is change everything as little and as gradually as possible from one frame to the other. Gavin here used a model who is not facing the camera and is, moreover, holding an umbrella so there are the least possible things that could potentially change from one shot to the other. Had the model faced the camera, she would have had to hold the expression on her face consistently during the entire shoot, something that is easier said than done.

When you go out to shoot for a project like this, be sure to choose a location where there is a slight variation from one angle to the next but not a drastic one (pebbles on the shore and the sea makes for an excellent setting here). For example, a meadow with a distant tree would probably be fine but a bustling market would NOT since it would change so much every second.

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As Gavin said you should also take as many images as possible. Just try and understand why. When you take all these images into a post-processing software, the final image will be a composite of all the images that you took. This directly means that the more images you take, the more details you allow the software to play with, and hence more intricate the final image appears to be.

Do not forget to create the last black layer, it is important for the overall effect you are looking for. Finally when dropping the opacity, try to hit the balance when the majority of details show up in the image. Do not care too much if, at all, the image gets a little dark, you can always flatten the entire lot and then brighten it up.

That is all you need to know about how to create art from photos. This is quite a fun project and I hope you have loads of fun doing this.

Just a fun tip this could be an excellent gift idea for someone close to you who likes old retro style paintings. Just take a bunch of photos and stack them up in photoshop and voila, you have just made a beautiful piece of art yourself!

Chromatic Aberrations | How To Easily Identify And Remove Them Using Lightroom.

Here is an easy trick to combat the problem of chromatic aberrations. Anthony Moriganti demonstarates the process in this quick video.

Chromatic aberrations is a problem that can easily be overlooked. The images then look a little funny with the weird colored pixels specially near high contrast edges. One of the most common scenario which may give rise to chromatic aberrations is while shooting a tree which has a sky for a background. Since the leaves are in the high contrast hot spot, it is very easy to have developed this problem there.

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We all know that our camera lenses consist of many elements. The light has to pass through all these various elements to reach the camera sensor. The problem with this is that, all these different lens elements have different refractive indices, which in simple terms means that all these lens elements do NOT bend the light rays coming in the same way. Hence sometimes some wavelengths of light of the optical spectrum get refracted more than the others and cannot be focused at a single common point. This is most likely to occur at the point of difference between a bright part and a dark part of the image.